I never forgot my first glimpse of Kabul during the time of
the Taliban. It was after the Mujahadeen war of the 90’s. The Mujahadeen
warlords behaved in typical Afghan fashion – each positioning on a hilltop
overlooking the King’s Palace and Karte Se. Forming alliances with one warlord,
treachery, betrayal, backstabbing each other, and the end result is that none
took control, the King’s Palace, Queen’s Palace, and most of Karte Se were
destroyed. Not a single house went without some mark of the war – whether
bullet marks, rockets dropping through roofs, fire, bombs. Only one house went
without a mark of war – the Christian Community Church of Kabul, known as the
CCCK by foreigners and Afghans alike.
My DH and I arrived in Kabul in early September with our
young baby. I had my colleagues send me
an outfit, so that when I arrived Kabul, I had properly veiled as we walked
through the empty and dark Kabul airport.
Because I was clearly a nursing mother, the guards merely waived us
through security – they were happy to have any foreigners coming to their
country.
We were told our apartment wasn’t quite ready, so we would
be taken to another office to wait, have lunch and go there in the afternoon. I
didn’t want to complain, since we were brand new. Frustratingly, I could feel a mild case of
fever and flu-like symptoms coming on, and the baby and I were weary of all the
change. We just wanted to get to our apartment and begin settling in.
Finally, it was time to pile back in the car with all our
luggage, and drive across the empty city. I will never forget what I saw as we
slowly drove into Karte Se – the speed necessitated by numerous potholes. It was when
we got to Demezong, the chowk where the post office was and turned onto
Durulamen Road that runs all the way to the King’s palace, that my eyes widened
into shock: I had traveled in over 55 countries of the world before I married
DH, but NOTHING prepared me for what I saw.
Immediately, the
vision of Jerusalem when it was sacked by the Babylonians, as described by Jeremiah
in the book of Lamentations came to mind. His words accurately described Kabul at the
time of the Taliban rule. My heart broke
as I later read his words:
“How lonely sits the
city that was full of people! How like a widow she has become, she who was
great among the nations! She who was a princess among the provinces has become
a slave. She weeps bitterly in the night, with tears on her cheeks; among all
her lovers she has none to comfort her; all her friends have dealt
treacherously with her; they have become her enemies. Judah has gone into exile because of
affliction and hard servitude; she dwells now among the nations, but finds no
resting place; her pursuers have all overtaken her in the midst of her
distress.
The roads to [Kabul] mourn, for none come to the festival; all her
gates are desolate; her priests groan; her virgins have been afflicted, and she
herself suffers bitterly. Her foes have become the head; her enemis prosper,
because the Lord has afflicted her for the multitude of her transgressions; her
children have gone away, captives before the foe. ….The enemy has stretched out
his hands over all her precious things; for she has seen the nations enter her
sanctuary, those whom you forbade to enter your congregation. All her people
groan as they search for bread; they trade their treasures for food to revive
their strength.
For these things I
weep; my eyes flow with tears; for a comforter is far from me, one to revive my
spirit; my children are desolate for the enemy has prevailed….Her gates have
sunk into the groun; he has ruined and broken her bars; her king and princes
are among the nations; the law is no more, and her prophets find no vision from
the Lord.
The elders […] on the
ground in silence; they have thrown dust on their heads, and put on sackcloth;
the young women of Jerusalem have bowed their heads to the ground…infants and
babies faint in the streets of the city. They cry to their mothers, ‘Where is
the bread and wine?’ as they faint like a wounded man in the streets of the
city, as their life is poured out on their mothers’ bosom.”
I now knew just a bit more what he saw, and the pain he must
have felt to see his own people destroyed because of their obstinance. War is a terrible thing, sometimes
necessitated as an instrument of God’s judgment, sometimes just purely evil. But
oh, how the mothers, babies, children, young men, young women, old men, old women
suffer. Rule under the Taliban, under Shariah law, is hell on earth. If one’s
Utopia is a place ruled by fear, hatred, coldness, and poverty, than Shariah
Law is the way to obtain it.
We arrived at what was to be our home for the next 6 months
or so. The first floor was completely sandbagged on the outside, but we were
led to the upstairs. Our first security briefing in-country was to be told to run downstairs if
we heard shelling, and we were taught how to use the VHF radios (okay, DH
already knew everything about how to use them, but I needed the
orientation). Security call was nightly,
to make sure everyone was in long before the Taliban-imposed curfew.
This was the beginning of learning how to live in a city
just a short ways from the front-line of a terrible war.